Gardening Notes For April

After a warm March, April is starting out much cooler!  The colder weather has destroyed some flowers, but it will also allow us more time to get to those time sensitive spring chores.  It allows more time for writing and reading our garden logs and completing indoor tasks such as seeding.  As the warmth returns, take a deep breath and prioritize what must be completed vs. what could be postponed for a day or two.  Remember, gardening is our hobby and we do not need any more pressures or deadlines! 
   
Things to do:

  • Finish pruning roses, small trees, and cut back shrubs early in the month.  The stems of red and golden-stemmed dogwoods (Cornus sanguinea cultivars) and willows (Salix) can be entirely cut back to 12”, or ⅓ to ½ of the older stems can be removed.  Shrub Roses can be cut in half to keep them from becoming overgrown.  Hydrangea arborescens cultivars can be cut back to 3”; Hydrangea paniculata cultivars can either be cut back severely to 12” or pruned lightly, leaving a 3-4’ tall framework for new growth to emerge; Hydrangea macrophylla should be thinned with the oldest and most branched stems cut to the ground while Hydrangea quercifolia should simple be shaped.  It is now too late to renewal prune Hollies or Yew.
  • Finish cutting back ornamental grasses and perennials.
  • If you overwintered bananas outside (such as Musa basjoo), remove the insulating leaves and the surrounding wire cage.
  • Divide grasses and perennials if necessary.  Remember that the center portion of the plant is the oldest and least vigorous and should be discarded.  The outer more vigorous ring will yield at least 10 new plants, with 9 of those going to friends, a new garden, or a curbside sale!
  • As soon as the early blooming bulbs (Snowdrops, Winter Aconites, Snowflakes, Scilla) have finished blooming, the clumps can be dug, divided and moved about the garden.  These bulbs are much more successfully spread about in spring while still actively growing than when purchased as dormant bulbs in autumn.
  • Continue potting up Canna, Banana, Alocasia and other tropical plants that were overwintered in the basement.
  • Edge bedlines and compost the pieces of turf that have been removed.
  • Finish thatching and raking lawns.  Apply a pre-emergent crabgrass control to established lawns before or during Forsythia bloom, if crabgrass was a problem in 2013.
  • Apply corn meal gluten to flower beds as a weed pre-emergent and mild fertilizer.
  • For the Vegetable Garden, finish sowing tomato, pepper, and eggplant seeds.  Earlier seeded Lettuce, Swiss chard, broccoli and cabbage seedlings can now be planted outside, especially under low tunnels.  

For tomatoes, if you sowed your seed in a tray and the first leaves or Cotyledons are now well develop, tease apart the seedlings and install the plants in individual cells.  Tomato seedlings can be planted deep, since roots will develop along the entire stem, providing a stout and strong plant (see images below – before planting on the left, planted on the right).

 

sowing seeds sowing seeds

 

  • Resist the urge to turn over or work the soil of your vegetable garden if the soil is too moist.  In fact, try not to even walk on the soil if possible.  If you can make baseballs from the soil, it needs a few more days to drain.
  • Early April for those in the South, later for those more North, seed can be sown directly in the garden for beets, carrots, spinach, cilantro, lettuce, arugula, mustard greens, bok choy, peas and turnips.
  • Apply fertilizer and lime to lawns and Vegetable Gardens as prescribed by soil test results.
  • Remove the wintergreens from containers and plant bulbs, pansies, primroses, evergreen grasses, etc for early spring color.  At Rutgers Gardens, we often use Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’, the Golden Sweetflag, as a chartreuse accent plant for spring containers!